A dripping compression faucet almost always means one thing: the flat rubber washer at the bottom of the valve stem has worn out. Replacing it costs a few dollars and takes about ten minutes. Here's the complete process.
What You'll Need
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Replacement faucet washer (measure the old one, or buy a couple of likely sizes — they're cheap)
- A towel to cover the drain (dropped screws love drains)
Step 1: Turn Off the Water
Close the shutoff valves under the sink, or the main supply for tub/shower faucets. Open the faucet to drain remaining water and release pressure.
Step 2: Remove the Faucet Handle
Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle to expose the handle screw. Remove the screw and pull the handle straight up. If it's stuck from mineral buildup, wiggle gently — don't force it sideways.
Step 3: Remove the Valve Stem
Unscrew the packing nut with your wrench (counterclockwise), then unthread the valve stem assembly and lift it out. On tub/shower valves you may need a deep socket to reach the stem.
Step 4: Replace the Washer
At the bottom of the stem you'll see the flat rubber washer held by a single brass screw. Remove the screw, pry out the old washer, and note how flattened, cracked or grooved it is — that's your leak. Press the new washer into the seat cup and reinstall the screw snugly (don't crush the rubber).
Sizing tip: the new washer should sit flush in the stem's cup without folding at the edges. Match your old washer's OD, ID and thickness — here's how to measure it — or compare against the size chart. For hot water valves, choose EPDM or silicone for the longest life.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Thread the stem back in, tighten the packing nut (snug, not gorilla-tight), reattach the handle, and turn the water back on slowly. Run the faucet, then shut it off and watch the spout for 60 seconds. No drip — done.
Still Dripping After a New Washer?
If the drip continues, the brass valve seat under the washer is likely pitted or scored. A $10 seat-dressing tool resurfaces it, or replaceable seats can be swapped with a seat wrench. A chewed-up seat also destroys new washers quickly — fix the seat, then install one more fresh washer.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what size faucet washer I need? Remove the old washer and measure its OD, ID and thickness. Most faucet washers fall between 9/16" and 3/4" OD. Sizing varies by brand, so measuring beats guessing.
Can I use any rubber washer in a faucet? Use a flat rubber washer in the correct size. For hot water lines, EPDM or silicone lasts far longer than natural rubber, which hardens with heat cycling.
Why does my faucet washer keep wearing out? Usually a rough or pitted valve seat chewing up the rubber, or overtightening the handle. Dress or replace the seat and close the faucet with light pressure.
Do washerless faucets have washers? Cartridge, ball and ceramic-disc faucets don't use stem washers — they use cartridges and O-rings. This repair applies to compression (two-handle, tighten-to-close) faucets.
Grab your size from the faucet washers collection — orders over $9.95 ship free from South Carolina, and a multi-size spares pack easily qualifies.